Showing posts with label Story. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Story. Show all posts

Thursday, 3 January 2013

Disney Princesses

Previous Disney Princess posts have focussed on the realism of the Princess themselves, but what about the costumes they are wearing? The Disney films are based on traditional fairy-tails, which were set in specific time periods, usually around the time they were first told. So the Princesses outfits should surely reflect the times in which they are set?

Now, artist Claire Hummel has re-imagined the Disney Princesses: creating for them beautiful gowns that fit the period the stories are based in...

Snow White
Snow White and the Seven Dwarves - 1937
A traditional Bavarian folk tale, the best known version is that of the Brothers Grimm, collected in 1812. It is set in 16th Century Germany (which is the most likely time-frame for the first appearance of the folk tale) and Hummel's version is based on fashions from the early 1500's

Cinderella
1950
The origins of this story are considered to be the Ancient Greek historian Strabo in the 1st Century AD. However the most popular version comes from Charles Perrault in 1697. Ballets and Pantomimes based on the tale gained popularity in the mid-1800's and it's this period that Hummel has depicted her Cinderella wearing to the ball as it bears the most resemblance to the time-period of the Disney film.

Princess Aurora
Sleeping Beauty - 1959
Based on a classic Brothers Grimm fairy story, the first translation was by French author Charles Perrault in 1697, however it was set much earlier in Medieval Europe. Hummel's version is based on French court fashion from the late 1400's.

Ariel
The Little Mermaid - 1989
Firs published as a ballet in 1837, Hummel states that Ariel's wedding gown in the Disney film with the 'embarrassing' 1980's sleeves was also reminiscent of the slash-sleeve evening gowns of the 1890's so this creation would not look out of place in a mid-century wedding dress

Belle
Beauty and the Beast - 1991
The first published version of the traditional tale 'La Belle et la Bete' appeared in France in 1740, although the abridged version gained more popularity towards the late 1700's. Hummel has created for Belle a ballgown in true, 18th Century French court fashion.

Princess Jasmine
Aladdin - 1992
One of the most popular tales from the legendary 'The Book of One-Thousand and One Arabian Nights' - Hummel has placed Jasmine within early 18th Century Persia: the first translation from Arabic was via French scholar Antoine Galland around 1709.

Pocahontas
1995
Based on the historical figure from the early 17th Century, the movie is very liberal with the actual facts (when the 'real' Pocahontas first met John Smith, she was around the age of 10!) however Hummel's depiction (apart from age!) is true to Native American dress of the period

Megara
Hercules - 1997
Hercules is the Roman adaptation of the Greek demi-god Herecles: he first appears around 350 BC however fashions of both empires were relatively similar and simple and this version of the mythological characters first wife (according to one version of the story he killed their four children in a fit of madness - not very Disney!) is simply elegant and beautiful - like a Doric column or marble muse.
**I know she's not an official Princess but she's the only non-princess in this series and I didn't want to mess up the chronology!**

Mulan
1998
Another example of Disney playing fast and loose with historical fact: Fa Mulan (the historical character) probably lived around 386-534 AD, however the Hun invasion of China took place much earlier (around 200BC) and both the clothing the characters wear and the Emperor's 'Forbidden City' is from the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644). Given this historical confusion, Hummel has still created a beautiful costume reminiscent of the late Ming/early Qing dynasty fashions.

Tiana
The Princess and the Frog - 2009
The Disney film is based on 'The Frog Princess' by E.D. Baker from 2002, which in turn is based on 'The Frog Prince' by... you guessed it; The Brothers Grimm! Disney based their movie in 1920's New Orleans and Hummel has re-imagined Tiana's 'Princess dress' from the movie's finale as a true 20's Flapper dress.

Rapunzel
Tangled - 2010
Now, the story first appears written down in 1812 by the Brothers Grimm and is an adaptation of an earlier tale 'Persinette' from 1698, which in itself bears striking resemblance to a 10th Century Persian epic poem. However, Hummel describes her version as 'late regency... circa 1820' reasoning that the Disney version is not tied to any particular land or time, and I suppose it bears a little passing homage to the time period of the Brothers Grimm

Wednesday, 10 October 2012

Bang Tidy

This weekend saw me heading up to Leeds for the wonderfully named show "Bang Tidy Burlesque" run by the indomitable Heidi Bang Tidy.

Backstage with Lilly Laudanum and Anna Fur Laxis

I was performing my act 'Snowstorm' for the final time before retiring this act - I have had it for so many years and I never felt it was working quite the way I wanted it too, so time to hang it up and concentrate on new ventures. However the show was fabulous and it was lovely to see so many old friends. I even got a few pictures back from the night already!

 

 
Pictures from 'Corbeau' and 'Snowstorm' by Laurie Cooper-Murray

Quote of the night came from Anna Fur Laxis: "Shall I show you how to kerb a mother-f**ker?"

I took a trip to Brighton this week to visit Louise O'Mahony who makes my costumes - we're working on a few new ones so it was time to get measured while wearing my tightlacing corset to make sure the dresses fit! Louise is fabulous and also runs my favourite vintage dress company 'Oh My Honey' 

 
A windy day on Brighton Pier


 
Sneak peek of my new costume bits...

I also managed to have a day off this week, and took advantage of it to go to the National Portrait Gallery with the beautiful Dolly Rose to visit the Marilyn Monroe exhibition.

 

Now those of you who watch the television abomination that is The X Factor will be aware of the head judge, Gary Barlow, using the words "Too Cabaret" to critique a singer that he believes is sub-par. The cabaret community didn't take too well to this insult, and so, organised by Frisky and Mannish, came together for a Cabariot Protest Video...


It was a long, tiring but utterly fabulous day with the cream of London Cabaret performers, all coming together in a cacophony of gospel vocals. We had brainwashing, sequins, passionate solos, convenient lighting changes, pizza, knives, witty one-liners, makeovers, endless tea, and lots and lots of giggling. 

 
Cabarati Assemble! ** Coco and Caroline take advantage of Joe's doughnuts...

 
Joe Black ** Vicky Butterfly

 
Laurie Hagen and Sally ** Mat Ricardo

I can't wait to see the final result... I shall post it here when it's ready! In the meantime, Mat has also written a blog about the Caberiot, with much better photos than mine! You can have a read of that here...
xx


Thursday, 27 September 2012

A History of Burlesque


Burlesque, as we know it today evokes images of extravagantly attired showgirls and beautiful women disrobing in Martini glasses; fabulous singers with voices that soar to the rafters; wonderful comedians reducing the audience to tears of laughter. It is a beautiful, funny and fascinating world with a rich history, stretching back as far as human history.

Dita von Teese: the face of modern Burlesque

“Burlesque” The OED tells us that the word derives from the Latin 'burla' meaning 'to joke' and the French suffix '-esque' meaning 'in the style of'. Therefore the word literally means 'In a joking style' or 'In the style of a joke.' Despite the notions of burlesque as satire and comedy being around for thousands of years, the word itself did not appear until the early 16th Century, in the title of a series of verses; 'Opere Burlesche' by Francesco Berni, and it was not until the late 1870's in American English that it came to be known as a 'variety show featuring striptease'.
Opere Burlesche 

The origins of Burlesque are usually cited as being Ancient Greece – specifically the playwright Aristophanes: his political comedies were aimed at leading government or public officials and intended to challenge and mock the contemporary social order. They were also considered rather risque – take, for example, the play 'Lysistrata': the women of Greece, tired of their men constantly marching off to war, withhold sex as a means of convincing them to negotiate peace. It is a political, social and sexual commentary that still holds appeal today, despite being first performed around 411BC!


 
Lysistrata, and two modern interpretations

From there, we travel to Medieval Italy and the tradition of the Commedia dell'Arte (the closest translation, from the longer form of the title is 'Comedy of the craft of Improvisation'). Travelling troupes of players would journey through Italy, performing plays and skits using stock characters, such as the innamorati (the lovers) Harlequin and Columbine, and the zanni (the clowns) among whom were characters named Pierrot, Pantalon and Burlesque: each of whom embodied a different mood (ie: happiness, mockery,etc). The plays themselves often had roots in Ancient Greek tales, but were also drawn from current events, local news or the political scandals of the day. As the plays were always improvised, it would have been easy to change the action to suit regional tastes, while still performing within the confines of the 'masks' or given characters. Interestingly, during the Napoleonic reign over Italy, Commedia was outlawed: maybe Napoleon was concerned about how he would be portrayed! Commedia is also notable in that women were usually part of the troupes, documented as early as the 1590's: women were not allowed on British stages until the late 1660's after the Restoration.

Commedia performers in their ubiquitous masks

Commedia was just as popular, if not more so, in France during the 16th and 17th Centuries: characters were refined and stories became set, using folk and fairy stories as their main influences. It is easy to see how the English tradition of Pantomime developed from there.

Performers from the French School of Commedia

The earliest recorded Pantomime show was produced at the Drury Lane Theatre in 1702, and consisted entirely of dances and “dumb-shows” (there was an odd law at the time that prohibited spoken word in theatrical performances without special permission from Parliament which was not repealed until 1843!) The first Pantomime – as we would recognise it now – was Cinderella, again produced at the Drury Lane Theatre around the mid-1800's. These pantomimes followed a set structure: the Opening would introduce the story (for example Aladdin or Jack and the Beanstalk) which would be followed by the Harlequinade: the lovers of the main story would be transformed into Harlequin and Columbine, and the action would become fast-paced and primarily visual with dances, stage magic and music. The Harlequinade would feature four main characters: the Harlequin (romantic male lead), Columbine (romantic female lead), Pantalone (the evil man in power, often Columbine's father) and the Clown, named... Burlesque. The night would end with an Extravaganza in which all strands of the story would come together to create a happy ending, utilizing magnificent props, special effects, spectacular costumes and scenery, and a full-cast finale number.

Victorian Pantomime Playbill

During the reign of Queen Victoria, the word burlesque came to be associated with musical pastiche, in which popular stories, operas, plays or ballets were parodied and mocked, and Burlesques were produced, to much acclaim across London; most notably by Madame Vestris at the Olympic Theatre. The shows began as one-act pieces, as part of a longer variety show, similar to the Harlequinade of Pantomime. Over time the Burlesque became an entire evening's worth of entertainment, including risque jokes and songs, dancing girls (in tights!) and bawdy humour.

Victorian drawing of Burlesque Dancers

The English style of Burlesque was introduced to America with great success around the late 1860's with the arrival of Lydia Thompson and her troupe of 'British Blondes'. The quick-witted Miss Thompson and her girls caused scandal and outrage (one publicity story stated that a Russian soldier, so smitten by Thompson, wrote her a love letter then placed it, along with a glove of hers on his chest and shot himself through the heart – unlikely but still lapped up by the American public!) The shorter Burlesques of the English tradition, once across the pond, were interspersed with other American variety acts such as minstrel shows, acrobats or magicians, and the night would end with a boxing match or a demonstration of exotic dancing.

Lydia Thompson: a forerunner of today's Drag Kings?

Briefly back to France, and the Folies Bergere, which opened around 1869 – the French laws on nudity were much more relaxed than anywhere in the world, and nude revues soon became all the rage – dancers, singers and courtesans flocked to the Folies, and later the Moulin Rouge (which opened in 1889) and both attracted stars such as Cleo de Merode, Josephine Baker, Mistinguette and Loie Fuller.

Vintage Moulin Rouge Poster

By the early 1900's in America, focus in Burlesque shows was mainly on the dancing girls and featured soubrettes who would show off their figures in tight dresses or revealing costumes, and entertain with singing and dancing: some girls would move more than others, but the ones who were less skilled at dancing often compensated with more elaborate costuming. The most famous Burlesque revues were the Ziegfeld Follies and the Minsky's Theatre: Flo Ziegfeld had been inspired by the Parisian Folies, and also possibly the British Pantomime Extravaganza with lavish sets, gorgeous costumes and the glorification of the female form. The Minsky's Burlesque were known as 'the poor-man's Follies' and included more ribald jokes, raunchier dance routines and often quite literally burlesqued the Ziegfeld Follies uptown.

Lucille Ball (American actress) began as a Ziegfeld Girl

 
A Ziegfeld show poster from 1915, and a poster for the 1946 film

In variety shows all over the USA, burlesque girls were present: as part of comedy sets, to feed the comedians the 'straight-lines', and to dance a little in-between set changes. Inspired by the latest dance craze – the hooch-cooch, derived from the belly dance and popularised at the Chicago World Fair of 1893 by the dancer Little Egypt – the dancers in burlesque shows would perform their own version of the hoochie-coochie; what would eventually become known as the Bump and Grind.

A cigarette card for one of many 'Little Egypt's

The Minsky's in New York quickly became the most popular venue for burlesque: the stories go like this: one night in 1917, a dancer, wanting to save on laundry bills, began removing her costume as she left the stage. The other story is that as one of the girls was dancing, the suspender holding her stockings up snapped – this became known as 'The Snap Heard Across New York.” In both versions of the tale, the audience went wild and the police raided Minsky's, which immediately gained massive popularity and notoriety with tag-lines such as “Not a Family Show!” By the late 1930's, shows would consist of around six 'featured dancers' supported by one or two variety acts – a turnaround from the days when the girls were incidentals while the sets were changed behind the curtain!

Minsky's Marquee in New York

However, over the next few decades, the Mayor of New York, Fiorello La Guardia, launched a concentrated campaign against Burlesque shows and theatres, attributing the illegal liquor and uninhibited atmosphere with a rise in crime. By 1937 the Supreme Court ruled that burlesque should be banned: even the word and the name of Minsky was made illegal!

Rose Darling and Sherry Britton - both dancers who appeared at Minsky's

At the same time in Europe, the rise of the Nazi party was stifling the previously thriving cabaret culture that arose during the Weimar Republic. The strict regime disapproved of the hedonistic, openly sexual culture of the cabaret scene and sought to repress any form of entertainment other than that which celebrated the government and it's ideals.

Weimar Cabaret Performers

However, in Britain, despite the strict censorships, a form of Burlesque was taking hold: as long as the girls on stage did not move, it was considered to be artistic, in the style of tableaux vivants or Ancient Greek statues. The Windmill Theatre, opening during a time when many theatres were in decline, soon developed a reputation for producing spectacular variety shows: comics, magicians, dancers: all supported by the infamous Windmill Girls who would appear in different poses throughout the evening: “If you move, it's rude.” Later, more ingenious methods were developed involving large props which could be used to conceal nudity, then having clothed dancers remove the props as the nude girl became still. During the second World War, the Windmill Girls became pin-ups for the forces, and the theatre, despite being bombed and most theatres in London at the time closing, remained open throughout: it's famous motto being “We Never Closed.”

 
Windmill Girls

During and after the war, burlesque experienced a resurgence: in America movies such as 'Lady of Burlesque' and 'Teaserana' glorified and revealed the world behind the glamour; Gypsy Rose Lee toured with her full-scale show 'The Star and Garter' and Bettie Page gained popularity as a pin-up and fetish model. In France the now world-famous Crazy Horse opened in 1951 and in 1958 in London, Paul Raymond's Revue bar became a popular destination in the heart of Soho.

 
Lady of Burlesque ** Star and Garter Show 

Bettie Page

 
Raymond Revue Bar, London ** Crazy Horse, Paris

It was short-lived though. The appeal of the cinema and the popularity of home television caused a massive decline in theatre attendance. Several of the stars of the variety stage, including Morecambe and Wise, and Bruce Forsyth, made a successful transition to the television (and it is worth noting that burlesque humour lingered on in many ways, such as the 'Carry-On' films). Many, however, did not and once thriving theatres across the country – both in England and America, and including the Windmill Theatre – were forced to close. The last remnants of burlesque in the UK were swept away by the Theatre's Act, enforced in 1968 which ruled that nude girls were now allowed to move on stage. Burlesque's slow peel and tease, and illusion of untouchable glamour, could not compete with the proliferation of strip clubs which allowed private nude dances, lap or table dances, and often a little more at the right price.

Men queuing outside a Burlesque Theatre
 
1960's Burlesque Dancers: Neptuna and Miss Beverly Hills

Decades passed. Burlesque was outdated and passe: something of the past, relegated to a handful of costumes, props and memories. A dancer from the American hey-day, Miss Dixie Evans (known then as the Marilyn Monroe of Burlesque!) began collecting some of these together, eventually creating a small museum, called The Burlesque Hall of Fame. As a way of drawing visitors to this small attraction in Las Vegas, Miss Evans held what would become an annual pageant. In 1991, the first Miss Exotic World Pageant was held, and won by the dancer Toni Alessandrini. In 1992, Catherine D'Lish was crowned Queen, and the pageant itself has grown in international popularity ever since – fuelled by a generation nostalgic for the lost glamour of a bye-gone era and grown tired of the gratuitous displays of nudity available in any corner-shop or at the click of a mouse button.

Dixie Evans - The Marilyn Monroe of Burlesque

 
Toni Alessandrini ** Catherine D'Lish

Burlesque Hall of Fame Museum in Las Vegas

Now often called Neo-Burlesque, we are seeing a rise in popularity unrivalled at any point in history. Cabaret and Burlesque shows are thriving in an unprecedented way, reaching new audiences and gaining new fans all the time. In America, touring Burlesque troupes and dancers entertain vast audiences as they travel across the US; in France the Moulin Rouge is as popular now as it was during the Belle Epoque; and in England cabaret and variety shows are available in almost every city in the country!

Immodesty Blaize

 
Roxi D'Lite ** Kiki Kaboom

 
Marni Scarlett ** Narcissister

The term encompasses an increasingly wide-range of performance styles: classic-striptease, comic acts, singing and circus to name just a few, honouring traditions of the past while pushing the boundaries to new and exciting pastures.

  
Jett Adore ** Satans Angel

 
Empress Stah ** Scotty the Blue Bunny

I don't know where burlesque will go in the future: will we go full-cycle again as audiences become hungry for more; smaller costumes, quicker reveals or increasing nudity, and raunchier routines? Will there be a a return to a more traditional, vaudeville format: where the burlesque dancer is merely a part of a longer variety show, alongside other styles of performance? Will audiences simply get bored as a new technology rises to take the place of live entertainment as happened with cinema and television? Will one style of burlesque die out as another takes its place – such as the smoky cabaret club being super-ceded by the spectacular stage production of a burlesque-inspired revue, or vice-versa? All of these scenarios have possibility: there are contemporary and historical examples of all of these situations being played out and it is barely possible to say where burlesque will be in another ten, twenty, fifty or one-hundred years. Maybe even a thousand years in the future, people will look back through history to our modern style of cabaret and reference this era as we do the Ancient Greeks or the Italian Commedia; as part of a long and varied tradition of burlesque theatre whose roots are deep and branches still growing...

 
The Evil Hate Monkey ** Dirty Martini

 
Michelle L'Amour ** Kittie Klaw

   
SallyRand ** Tigger

 
Lili St. Cyr ** Kitten Deville

Sources
Wikipedia Articles: Burlesque, Neo-Burlesque, Harlequin, Commedia dell'arte, Pantomime, Victorian Music Hall, Lysistrata, Aristophanes, Burlesque Hall of Fame, 
Burlesque Bible Magazine: Issue One (articles by Jo Taylor and Kittie Klaw)
Burlesque and the art of the Teese: Dita von Teese
It's Behind You! A History of Pantomime